Coastal Dynamics

Our world is constantly changing, governed by continuity, dynamic interactions and boundary conditions. For many coasts, the common denominators contributing to these changes are sand, waves, tides, salt gradients, and human interaction, all themes that are treated in this valuable textbook.

Confining itself to essentials, the coverage reflects centuries of theoretical and practical knowledge of Dutch coastal engineers. Focussing, where applicable, on linear theory, the book shows how the essentials of local coastal behavior can be reproduced and predicted.

Contents:

• Introduction

• The Dutch Coast: A Coastal Engineering View:

  • Introduction
  • 150 Years of Beach Measurements
  • The Jarkus Measurements (Holland Coast)
  • Sand Transport by Waves and Tides (Uninterrupted Coast)
  • Tides, Shaping a Coast: Lessons from Van Veen and Other Old Masters
  • Changes of the Zealand coast by Man and Nature

• Line Theories in Coastal Dynamics:

  • Introduction
  • One Line Theory, No Diffraction
  • 2-Line Theory
  • More-Line Theories
  • Symbols Concerning Chapter 3

• Determination of Coastal Constants:

  • General Considerations
  • Calculation of Coastal Constants from Hindcasting of Field Data
  • Computation of Coastal Constants in Longshore Direction from theWave Climate
  • Focussing on cross-shore interaction
  • Symbols Concerning Chapter 4

• Experimental Verification:

  • Introduction
  • Experiments in Laboratories
  • Results of Groin Application in Nature

• Valuation of the One- and Two-line Model:

  • Introduction
  • Remarks on the Sand Transport Mechanism Assumed
  • Effect of Variable Wave Conditions
  • Effects of Groins as Result of the One- and Two-line Theory

• Interaction Between Outer Delta's and Tidal Basins:

  • Introduction
  • Momentaneous velocities: Linear Tidal Hydraulics. The Lorentz Method and Considerations on Velocity Profiles
  • Tidal Hydraulics: Resultant Currents, Caused by Longitudinal Density Gradients
  • Non-linear Tidal Hydraulics: Vertical Circulation, Caused by “Rain in the Drain”
  • Summary Concerning Tidal-averaged Vertical Circulation; Concluding Remarks
  • Resonance and Morphological Stability of a Prismatic Channel
  • A Morphological Behavior Model for the Outer Delta of Tidal Inlets
  • Morphology of Multiple-channel Tidal Inlet Systems, like Wadden Sea and Western Scheldt
  • Discussion on the Assumptions; Limitations on the Applied Methods in Relation to Other Methods; Acknowledgement
  • Acknowledgements

• Epilogue: Forum and Future Research:

  • “There is More Between Water and Earth, Dear Bakker, than is Meant in your Philosophy”

Readership: Graduate students and researchers in ocean and coastal engineering and management.
Key Features:

• Explores coastal prediction based on simple mathematical concepts, validated by coastal engineering practice
• Considers the practical knowledge and experience of many influential people in the field over the past century