Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief
by
Steven Kotler
Language: English
Release Date: December 1, 2008
After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind. Kotler, not a religious man, suddenly found himself drawn to the sport of surfing as if it were the cornerstone of a new faith. Why, he wondered,...